Sewing-machine.



E. E. WINKLEY.

SEWING MACHINE.

APPLICATION min 0121.30. 1912.

1,197,988. Patentedsept. 12,1916.

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E. E. WINKLEY.

SEWING MACHINE.

APPLICATION FILED ocT. 30. 1912.

Patented Sept. 12, 1916.

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E. E. WINKLEY.

SEWING MACHINE.

APPLlcATloN FILED ocr. a0, 1912.

Patented Sept. 12, 1916.

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E. E. WINKLEY.

SEWING MACHINE.

APPLICATION FILED OCT. 30, I9I2. 1,197,988.

Patented Sept. 12, 1916.

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E. E. WINKLEY.

SEWING MACHINE.

APPLICATION FILED ocr. 30. |912.

Patented Sept. 12, 1916.

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E. E. WINKLEY.

sEwmG MACHINE.

Patented Sept. 12, 1916.

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APPLICATION FILED OCT. 30| |912.

E. E. WINKLEY.

SEWING MACHINE.

APPucATlon man ocr. ao. 1912.

1,1 97,988. Patented Sept. l2, 1916.

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E. E. WINKLEY.

SEWING MACHINE.

APPLICATION FILED ocT. 3o. 1912.

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E. E. WINKLEY.

sEwlNG MACHINE.

APPLICATION FILED OCT. 30. |912.

1,197,988. y Pawndsept. 12,1916.

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UNITED STATES ATENT FFTCE.

ERASTUS E. WINKLEY, OF LYNN, IVIASSACHUSETTS.

SEWING-MACHIN E.

Application led October 30, 1912.

To all lwhom t may concern.'

Be it known that I, ERAsTUs E. WINKLEY, a citizen of the United States, residing at Lynn, in the county of Essex and State of Massachusetts, have invented certain new and useful Improvelnents in Sewing-Machines; and I do hereby declare the following to be a full, clear, and exact description of the invention, such as will enable others skilled in the art to which it appertains to make and use the same. n

The present invention relates to sewing machines, and more particularly to chain stitch shoe sewing machines of the class which employ a curved hook needle, and which are used in sewing the inseams of boots and shoes.

During each cycle of stitch forming operations of machines of this class, starting with the needle in retracted position with a loep of thread held in its hook, the needle advances through the loop last formed, and through the materials into position to receive the thread from the looper. The looper then lays the thread in the hook ef the needle, after which the needle retracts, drawing a new loop of thread through the materials and through the previously formed loop. In order to enable the shoe t0 be removed wlenwthewse'am has been completed, and another shoe to be placed in the machine in position to be sewed, it is necessary that the needle be brought toV rest in retracted position outofaengagement with the work. Vhen the needle is retracted out of engagement with the work during a cycle of stitch forming operations, the last loop drawn out is held in the hook of the needle, and it has usually been necessary in machines heretofore devised to manipulate either the machine er the shoe in order to free the thread from the barb of the needle. Machines have been constructed in which the direction of movement of the main driving shaft of the machine has been automatically reversed upon stopping the machine to free the thread from the needle and bring the needle to rest out of engagement with the work.

The primary object of the present invention is to produce a curved hook needle inseam shoe sewing machine provided with means whereby, without reversing the direction of movement of the main driving f' shaft of the machine, the thread and parts of the machine may be placed in such condi- Specification of Letters Patent.

Patented Sept. 12, 1916.

Serial No. 728,623.

tion as to offer no obstacle to the removal of the shoe, or to the insertion of another shoe in the machine in position to be sewed. YWith this object in view the invention contemplates the provision in a machine of this class of ylegarisivtm() free the `last needlewloop from the stitchr formlngwiiievides duringY the ferward rotation of the main Shaftbfthe machine andbringkthe needlefto rest Olltof engagement with'the. work; In the preferred embodiment of the invention the above object is accomplished by the provision of means to render the looper inactive during a forward cycle of movement of the machine, and thereafter to cause the needle to come to rest out of engagement with the work. Since the looper is rendered inactive during a norinalcyclebf movement of the needle, the'ne'e'dle is rendered free of thread when it is brought out of engagement with the work so that the shoe can be readily removed. In the best form of the invention which has yet been devised,

mechanism is provided which acts automati- A cally when brought into action raifdwis timed and controlled withrrelation to the other parts of the machine so as to throw the looper out of action during a cycle of movement of the machine before the needle is looped, and thereafter during the same cycle of movement to bring the needle toV rest out of engagement with the work.

Another feature of the invention consists in the provision of mechanism for interrupting the feeding action of the feeding devices of the machine during the rotation of the main shaft. This mechanism is timed with relation to the other parts of the machine so that the feeding action of the feeding devices is interrupted when the needle is brought to rest out of engagement with the work thereby preventing the feeding devices from feeding the shoe forward after the seam is completed and the needle brought to rest. Upon starting the machine the feeding devices are restored to action in timed relation to the needle and other parts of the machine by mechanism which is so timed that the feeding action of the feeding devices is suspended until the needle has advanced and retracted in the first cycle of stitch forming operations and the feeding of the shoe before the needle advances through the work is prevented.

A further feature of the invention consists in the provision of mechanism acting during the forward rotation of the shaft for releasing the tension on the thread. This mechanism is timed with relation to the means for causing the needle to come to rest out of engagement with the work so that the tension is released as the needle is brought to rest.

Further features of the invention consist of certain constructions, arrangements and combinations of parts, the advantages of which will be obvious to one skilled in the art from the following description.

The various features of the invention will be readily understood from an inspection of the accompanying drawings and the following detailed description.

In the drawings, Figure 1 is a sectional elevation of the machine looking from the left, showing the parts in the position which they occupy during the operation of the machine in sewing a seam; Fig. 2 is a side elevation of the machine looking from the right, showing the parts in the positions they assume when they have been placed in condition to permit the removal of the shoe; Fig. 3 is a rear elevation of the machine with the parts in the same positions as in Fig. 2; Fig. 4 is a detail side elevation illustrating particularly the mechanism for releasing the tension and the mechanism for unlocking the back gage and welt guide and for holding the welt guide in retracted position, with the parts in the same positions as in Fig. 2; Fig. 5 is a side elevation of the driving mechanism located in the base of the machine with a portion of the casing broken away to show the interior structure; Fig. (3 is a detail horizontal sectional view illustrating a portion of the machanism at the rear of the main shaft of the machine; Fig. 7 is a section taken on the line 7 7 of Fig. 1, looking in the direction of the arrows; Fig. 8 is a detail elevation of the mechanism for actuating the needle and a portion of the mechanism for disconnecting the needle from its actuating mechanism, showing the parts in running positions; Fig. 9 is a section taken on the line 9 9 of Fig. 8; Fig. 10 is a detail sectional view taken on the line 1010 of Fig. 2; Fig. 11 is a detail side elevation illustrating particularly a portion of the mechanism for throwing the looper, feed mechanism and needle out of action upon stopping the machine and for throwing these devices into action when the machine is started; Fig. 12 is a diagrammatic view showing a development of the surface of the grooved roll which forms a part of the mechanism for throwing the looper, feed mechanism and needle into and out of action; Fig. 13 is a diagrammatic view of the cams for disconnecting the needle., looper and feed slide from and for connecting them with their i actuating mechanisms; Fig. 14 is a side eletrated as embodied in a welt and turn shoe sewing machine such as that shown and described in the application of Andrew Eppler, Serial No. 447,542, led August 8, 1908. The machine is provided with a curved hook needle 1, a looper 2, a thread finger 3, a welt guide 4, a back rest 5, a feed point 6 and a channel guide 7, which devices are operated through suitable connections by cams carried by the main shaft S of the machine. As usual in this type of machines,

the main shaft makes one revolution for each cycle of operations performed by the stitch forming and work feeding devices.

During the sewing operation the machine is driven through a belt pulley 9 secured to the end of the main shaft and connected by a driving belt with a pulley 10 mounted in the base of the machine. The pulley 10 is connected through bevel gears 11 with a sleeve 12 mounted on the driving shaft 13 and carrying one member 14 of the driving clutch. The driving shaft carries the other member 15 of the clutch, and also carries the driving pulley 16 through which motion is imparted to the driving shaft 13 from the power shaft. The engagement of the members of the driving clutch is controlled through a treadle 17 connected with the clutch operating wedge 1S. In the construction illustrated the treadle is constructed of two parts which are arranged for independent movement. Of these the part 19 is pivotally mounted upon a shaft 20 carried by suitable brackets on the frame, and is connected by means of a link 21 with an arm 22 extending down from the clutch operating wedge 18. A block 23 is secured to or formed integral with the arm 22 and an adjustable stop bolt 24 threaded into the block and arranged to engage a point on the frame serves to limit the upward movement of the part 19 of the treadle. The part 19 is yieldingly held up by a heavy coiled spring 2G connected at one end thereto, and at the other end to a fixed part' of the machine frame. The other part 27 of the treadle is pivoted at the upper end of an arm 28 on the part 19, so that it is permitted to move independently of the part 19. The part 27 of the treadle is connected by means of a link 29 with a bell crank lever 30 pivoted at 31 and provided with a forwardly extending arm to which is attached the lower end of a rod 32. A coiled spring 33 surrounding this rod is inter'- posed between a collar 34 on the rod and a lug 35 on the frame of the machine, through which the rod 32 passes. The rod 32 is connected with and arranged to Control the mechanism for throwing the looper', needle and feed slide out of action, as will be hereinafter described.

The needle l is secured in the usual manner to the needle segment 3G pivotally mounted on a stationary portion of the machine frame, and connected by a link 3T with a cam actuated lever 3S. To permit the needle actuating mechanism to be disconnected from the needle so that the needle may be brought to rest during the rotation of the main shaft of the machine, the lever 3S is made up of two parts 39 and 40, as shown particularly in Fig. 8. The part 39 of said lever is pivoted on the shaft 41, and carries a cam roll 42 which engages a cam on the main shaft of the machine. The part 40 of the needle lever is also journaled upon the shaft 41, and a slide 43 is connected with the part 40 of said lever. This slide is formed with a yoke which embraces the hub of the part 39, and with a narrow forward portion which slides between flanges 44 on the part 40. This slide is held from lateral movement with relation to the part 40 of the lever by a screw 45 secured to the slide and operating in a slot in the part 40. During the normal operation of the machine the slide 43 occupies the position illustrated in Fig. 8, with the forward extremity thereof located between inwardly projecting` lugs 4G on the part 39 of the lever. lVhen the slide is in this position the parts 39 and 40 of the lever are locked together so that they oscillate in unison, thereby imparting the proper oscillatory movements to the needle during each cycle of operations of the machine. lVhen the slide 43 is moved to the rear with relation to the part 40 of the needle actuating lever, the forward end of the slide is withdrawn from between the lugs 4G on the part 3E) and thereafter the part 40 of the lever connected with the needle remains at rest, and the part 39 oscillates idly. In order to withdraw the slide 43 to disconnect the parts of the needle actuating lever, a lever 47 pivoted on a shaft 48 is connected by means of a link 49 with the rear end of the slide 43. A cam roll 50 is carried by the lever 47 and engages a cam groove 51 in a cam lever 53 mounted on the shaft 41. Vhen the cam lever 53 is moved upwardly from the position in which it is illustrated in Fig. 8, the slide 43 is moved rearwardly to withdraw the forward end thereof from between the lugs 46. 1n order to hold the part 40 of the needle actuating lever from displacement when the slide is withdrawn, an arm 55 on the frame extends downwardly adjacent to the rear end of the slide, and when the slide is withdrawn the lower extremity of said arm engages a face 56X formed on the rear portion of the slide. lvhen the slide 43 has been withdrawn to disconnect the parts of the needle actuating lever, and the cam lever is moved downwardly, the slide will be moved forwardly to project the forward end thereof between the lugs 4G on the part 39, thereby again connecting the two parts of the lever. Mechanism is provided for actuating the cam lever to retract the slide 43 and thereby bring the needle to rest upon stopping the machine and said mechanism is constructed and arranged and timed with relation to the rotation of the main shaft of the machine so that the needle is disconnected from its actuating mechanism and brought to rest at that point in a forward cycle of movement of the machine when the needle has reached a retracted postition out of engagement with the work. Then the machine is started, the cam lever 53 is actuated to connect the needle with its actuating mechanism at the same point in the rotation of the main driving shaft and in a cycle of movement of the machine at which it was disconnected.

The upper portion of the cam groove 51 is constructed in the form of the curve of the are of a circle, the center of which lies in the aXis 41 of the lever 53, as shown in Fig. 8 and Fig. 13, in which this groove 1s represented in dotted lines. The slide 43 will therefore be actuated to throw the needle out of action during the last portion of the upward movement of the lever from the position in which it is shown in Fig. 8, and when the lever 53 is actuated to connect the needle with its actuating mechanism, the slide 43 will be actuated to throw the needle into operation during the initial part of the downward movement of the lever 53.

As above stated the needle is brought to rest out of engagement with the work during the forward rotation of the shaft and during a forward cycle of movement of the machine, and mechanism is provided for rendering the looper inactive during the last cycle of movement of the needle, so that the needle is retracted while its hook is empty and is free of thread when brought to rest out of engagement with the work. In the construction illustrated, the looper is provided with a shank which is received in a cylindrical socket in the lower end of an arm 56, the connection between the looper' shank and thc arm being such that the looper can be adyiustcd vertically. The shank of the looper is held iu the arm by means of a clamping screw 57. The arm 5G is pivotcd midway its length to a block 53 secured to the forward end of a cam actuated slide 59. The slide 59 is arranged above the needle and in a plane parallel with the plane of the u" needle, so that the reciprocating movements of the slide impart forward and rearward movements to the looper. The movements of the looper at right angles to the plane of .y the needle are produced by oscillating the arm 56, the movements of the looper due to the reciprocation of the slide and the oscillation of the arm acting to carry the thread around the needle and lay it in the barb. The upper end of the arm 56 is provided with a socket in which a rod 59a is received. This rod is provided at its upper end with a socket or bearing which receives a rod 60 secured to an arm 61 looselv mounted upon a rock shaft 62 and arranged to slide longitudinally of said shaft. An arm 63 is secured to the forward end of the rock shaft 62, and is provided with a pin 64 which is adapted to engage a hole in the arm 6l, and thereby lock the arm 61 and the arm 63 together, so that they oscillate in unison. When the arm 61 is moved to the rear, the pin 64 is disengaged from the perforation in said arm, and the arm 63 then oscillates idly. The rod 59a is free to slide in a socket in the arm 56, and the rod 60 is free to Slide in the socket in the upper end of the rod 59a. The shaft 62 is provided with a downwardly projecting arm 65 at its rear end which is provided with a roll engaging a cam on the main shaft of the machine. In order to render the looper inactive during the last forward movement of the needle before it is brought to rest, mechanism is provided for moving the arm 6l to the rear to disconnect said arm from the arm 63 of the rock shaft. To this end-a bell crank lever 66 is pivoted at 67 on the frame of the machine and one arm 68 of said bell crank lever carries a roll 6) which engages a groove in the hub of the arm 61. The other arm 70 of said bell crank is connected by means of a link 71 with a lever 72 (Fig. 4) journaled on the shaft 48. The lever 72 carries a cam roll 73 which is arranged to engage a cam groove 74 formed in the cam lever 53. The shape of the cam groove 74 is such that when the cam lever 53 is moved upwardly from the position shown in Fig. 1, the lever 72, link 71, and bell crank 66 will be actuated in a direction to disconnect the arm 61 from the arm 63 of the rock shaft. To prevent the displacement of the parts of the looper mechanism when the arm 61 is disconnected from the arm 63, a pin 61a is mounted on the hub of the arm 61 and is arranged to enter a slot 62a in a bracket 63 secured to the frame, when the arm 6l is moved rearwardly to disengage the pin 64 from the hole in the arm 61.

The lower portion of the cam groove 74 has the form of the curve of the arc of a circle, as shown in Fig. 13, in which the cam groove 74 is diagrammatically illustrated in heavy full lines. The center of the curve of this portion of the cam groove 74 lies in the axis of the lever 53, so that the lever 72 is actuated to disconnect the looper from its actuating mechanism during the initial part of the upward movement of the lever 53. iVhen the lever 53 is moved downwardly to connect the looper with its actuating mechanism the lever 72 is actuated to throw the looper into operation during the final downward movement of the lever 53. The lever 53 is actuated in timed relation to the rotation of the main shaft and to the movements of the needle to disconnect the looper from its actuating mechanism during a cycle of movement of the machine before the needle is looped so that the needle is free of thread when it reti-acts out of engagement with the work.

To prevent the feeding devices of the machine from continuing to feed the shoe forward after the needle is brought to rest out of engagement with the work, the machine is provided with mechanism for interrupting the feeding action of the feeding devices. The feeding devices of the machine comprise a feed slide upon which the feed point and channel guide are supported, the feed point and channel guide being mounted for oscillatory movement on the slide and arranged to move laterally with the slide in the usual manner. The feed slide of the machine illustrated in the drawings is of the usual construction. The cam actuated lever for imparting forward and rearward movements to the feed slide is indicated at 75. This lever is provided with a hub 76 pivoted at 77 on the machine frame, the usual adjustable connection, indicated at 78, being provided between the lever and the hub. T he lever is provided intermediate its ends with a slot within which is adjustably secured a block from which projects a pin 79 having mounted thereon a block engaging a slot in the feed slide. This connection between the lever' and feed slide is of usual construction, and permits an adjustment of the length of feed. In order to permit the lateral movements of the feed slide to be interrupted during the continued rotation of the main shaft of the machine, the lever comprises two members indicated at 80 and 81, of which the member 80 is rigidly connected to the hub of the lever, and the member 81 carrying the cam roll 82 is pivotally connected at 83 to the member 80. The member 81 is provided with upwardly projecting guide lugs 84 which engage on each side of the member 80 and prevent any lateral displacement of the member 81 with relation to the member 80. The cam roll 82 is arranged to engage a cam groove 82EL in a cam disk carried by the main shaft 8. The pivotal connection between the member 80 and the member 81 of the lever permits the cam roll 82 to be disengaged from the cam groove 821L and the feeding action of the feeding devices thereby interrupted. In order to actuate the member 81 of the feed slide lever to throw the cam roll 82 into and out of engagement with the cam groove, a level 30 is pivoted on the shaft 41 and is provided at its forward extremity with a slot which engages a pin SS carried by the member 31. A second arm 39 on the lever 0 extends upwardly between the arms of a yoke 90 also journaled on the shaft 41, the arms of the voire being connected with the arm S9 b v means of a pin 91. The upper end of the yoke 90 is connected by means of a universal joint with a cylinder 92 in which operates u rod 93 connected by means of a universal joint with a lever 94 journaled upon the shaft 18. A, coiled spring 95 surrounds the rod 93, and eng ges at one eX- treniity a head 9.3 on the rod, and at the other a can 95h mounted on the end of the cvlinder. "it will be noted that bv means of this connection between the yoke 90 and the lever 94 the yoke will be actuated positively by the lever when the lever is moved forward, but when the lever is moved rearwardly the spring will yield, in case any olstruction prevents the rearward movement of the yoke. The lever 94 carries a ram roll 96 which engages a cam groove 97 formed in the cam lever 53. The shape of the cam groove 97 is such that when the cam lerer is moved upwardly from the position in which it is shown in Fig. 1, the lever 94 will be moved forwardly, thereby actuating` the yoke 90 and lever 80 in a direction to withdraw the cam roll 82 from the cam groove 35.) and throw the feed slide out of artion. The member 8,1. of the feed slide actuating lever is provided with a downwardljY extending lug 98 which is arranged to ref-:t between fixed lugs 99 when the member 31 is actin-.ted to withdraw the cam roll 9.1% from the cam groove, thereby preventing any lateral movement of the lever and the ford slide mitil the feed slide is again thrown into action. \Vhen the cam lever .13 is moved downward from the position in vxhich it is shown in Fig. Q, the lever 94 will be moved to the rear, thereby tending' to activate the yoke 90 in a direction to lift the horizontal arm of the lever S6 and en- "vo'e the ram roll with the cam groove tf; `throw the feed slide into oneration. The spring connection between the lever 94 and the yoke 90. permits the lever 94 when it is moved rearwardly. to move independently of said volle in case the cam groove 82a is not in position to receive the roll 82 when the hver 94 is actuated. The cam roll 82 is therebv held in yielding engagement with the exterior of the cam disk, and when the ram groove arrives in position to receive the roll. the roll will be lifted into engagement with the cam groove by the action of the spring 95,

In order to insure that the cam roll 82 Will engage the cam groove when said cam groove arrives in position to receive the roll, positive means is provided for causing the cam roll to engage the cam groove. To this end the yoke 90 is provided with a roll 100 arranged to be engaged by a projection 101 on the cam disk when the cam groove 82a arrives in a position to receive the roll 32. The yoke 90 is thereby moved to the right about the shaft 41, and the cam roll 82 is actuated positively to throw it into engagement with the cam groove. In order that the roll 100 may be out of the path of the projection 101 when the feed slide is thrown out and may be thrown into the path of said projection when the feed slide is to be thrown into action, the yoke 90 is constructed so that the space between its arms is sufficient to permit the yoke to slide longitudinally of the shaft 41. The yoke is maintained in a position such that the roll 100 is out of the` path of the projection 101 when the feed slide is inactive by the tension of the spring 102. Then the lever 94 is actuated in a direction to throw the feed slide into action the yoke 90 is moved inwardly along the shaft 41 by means of a forked cam arm 103 carried by an arm 104 on the lever 94 and arranged to engage a cam ring 105 on the shaft 41. During the normal operation of the machine the roll 100 is located beyond the path of the projection 101.

The cam lever 53 is actuated in timed relation to the rotation of the main shaft and to the other parts of the machine so that the feed slide is out of action when the needle is brought to rest. In the present embodiment of the invention the feed slide is thrown ont of connection with its actuating devices when in retracted position ready to begin a work feeding stroke.

r1`he cam groove 97 is constructed so that the end portions of the groove are substantially concentric with the axis of the lever 53 and the lever 94 is actuated to throw the feed slide out of and into action when the cam roll 90 is in an intermediate portion of the cam groove. The cam groove 97 is illustrated in comparatively light full lines in Fig. 13.

It will be observed from an inspection of Fig. 13 that the relative forms and arrangement of the cam grooves 51, 74 and 97 are such that when the cam lever 53 is moved upwardly the looper is first disconnected from its actuating mechanism, then the feed slide, and last the needle. lVhen the cam lever 53 is moved in a reverse direction the cams on the cam lever will operate their respective mechanisms to throw the needle, looper and feed slide into action in an order reverse to that in which they were thrown out, that is, first, the needle, then the feed slide, and last, the looper.

In order that the looper may be rendered inactive during a forward cycle movement of the machine before the needle is looped, the feeding action of the feeding devices interrupted and the needle brought to rest thereafter out of engagement with the work, mechanism is provided for actuating the cam lever 58 in timed relation to the rotation of the shaft and to the movements of the parts of the machine to disconnect the looper, feed slide and needle from their respective actuating mechanism at the proper times in a cycle of movement of the machine. Mechanism is also provided to actuate the lever 53 to restore the needle, looper and feed slide to action in their proper timed relations when the machine is started. ln the construction illustrated in the drawings, the mechanism for actuating the cam lever comprises a stopping cam disk 100, a starting cam disk 107 fixed to the cam shaft 8, and a lever 108 provided with rolls 109 and 110 arranged to alternatively engage the stopping cam and the starting cam, said lever being connected with the cam lever 53. The lever 108 is provided with a hub 109a loosely journaled on the shaft 41, and an arm 110R is formed on said hub, the end of which arm engages between projections 111 on an intermediate lever 1.12 also journaled on the shaft 41. This connection between the lever 108 and the lever 112 permits a relative longitudinal movement of said levers on the shaft 41, but causes the levers to move in unison about said shaft. rlhe lever 112 is provided with a rearwardly extending arm 113 (see Fig. 11), the end of which is arranged to engage between lugs 114 on the cam lever An adjusting screw isthreaded into each of said lugs, and these screws engage opposite sides of the arm 118, thereby providing an adjustable connection between the cam lever 58 and the lever 112. Through the connections described, when the lever 108 is oscillated about the shaft 41, the cam lever 53 will also be moved about said shaft. Vhen the machine is running normally, in the operation of sewing a seam, the cam roll 110 is held in engagement with the central circular portion 115 of the cam groove in the starting cam disk 107 and during the continued rotation of the cam shaft at this time, the caln lever 53 is maintained in the position illustrated in Fig. 1. .Vhen it is desired to place the parts of the machine in a condition to permit the removal of the shoe at the completion of the sewing, the lever 108 is moved laterally to engage the cam roll 109 on said lever with the cam groove in the stopping cam disk 106. This lateral movement of the lever 108 causes the roll 109 to engage the central portion 11G of the groove in the stopping cam disk. The rotation of the stopping cam disk in the direction of the arrow causes the lever 108 to move to the right (Figs. 1, 2, 4 and 11) about the shaft 41 and thereby actuate the cam lever 53 in a direction to throw the looper, feed slide and needle out of action.

It will be noted from an inspection of Fig. 14 that the first rise in the cam groove in the stopping cam disk 100 occurs at the point indicated at 117, and by the engagement o this rise with the roll 109, the lever 108 and the cam lever 58 are actuated to disconnect the looper from its actuating mechanism. The cam groove is formed and the cam disk is arranged on the shaft so that the rise 117 engages with the roll 109 to throw the looper out of action during a cycle of movement of the machine before the needle is looped. A period of dwell follows this rise in the cam groo\ e, and the second rise occurs at the point indicated at 118, and when this rise engages the roll 109, the lever 108 and the cam lever 58 are actuated to throw the feed slide out of action. This occurs during a cycle of movement of the machine when the feed slide is retracted ready to begin a work feeding stroke. A short dwell follows the rise 118, and the third rise in the cam groove occurs at 119, and when this rise engages the roll 109, which is the point at which the needle is in retracted position out of engagement with the work, the lever 108 and cam lever 58 are actuated to disconnect the needle from its actuating mechanism, thereby causing the needle to come to rest. During the continued rotation of the cam disk 100 of the machine, after the looper, feed slide and needle have been thrown out of action, the cam roll 109 engages in the outer circular portion 120 of the cam groove in the stopping cam disk and no further movement is therefore imparted to the lever 108, said lever being idle during the rotation of the cam shaft. Then another shoe hasl been inserted in position to be operated upon by the stitch forming devices, the needle, looper and feed slide are again thrown into action by moving the lever 108 laterally so that the roll 109 is disengaged from the cam groove in the stopping cam disk and the roll 110 is engaged with the cam groove in the starting cam disk 107. rThe roll 110 at this time engages the outer portion 121 of the cam groove in the starting cam disk. The first rise in the cam groove in the starting cam after the roll 110 has been engaged with said cam groove, occurs at the point indicated at 122. The engagement of the roll 110 with this rise, which occurs when the forward end of the slide 43 is opposite the recess between the lugs 4G on the part 49 of the needle actuating lever, causes an upward movement of the arm of the lever 108 which carries the rolls 109 and 110 and a corresponding downward movement of the cam lever It will be noted from an inspection of Fig. 13 that this movement of the cam lever 53 will throw the needle into operation. The second rise in the cam groove in the starting cam disk occurs at the point indicated at 123, and referring again to Fig. 13 it will be seen that the movement of the lever 53 at this time will tend to throw the feeding devices into operation. The cam groove 82n in the cam disk carried by the cam shaft of the machine is not at this time in position to receive the cam roll 82 of the feeding devices, and the lever 91 at this time actuates the yoke 90 to engage the cam roll 82 with the exterior of the cam disk, and the movement of the lever 91 after the roll 82 is brought into engagement with the surface of the cam disk causes a compression of the spring 95. The wedge 102, however, is at this time actuated to move the yoke 90 inwardly to bring the roll 100 thereon into the path of the projection 101. The third rise in the cam groove in the starting cam occurs at the point indicated at 121 and at the point in the rotation of the cam shaft when this rise engages the roll 110, the lever 108 is actuated to impart the final downward movement to the cam lever This occurs when the pin 61 is opposite the hole in the arm 61 and the arm 61 is advanced, engaging the pin with the hole in said arm, thereby throwing the looper into operation. At this point the needle has advanced through the materials in position to receive the thread in its barb, and the looper is then thrown into action and operates to carry the thread about the needle. `When the needle is retracted, carrying the loop of thread in its barb, the cam groove 82L in the cam disk has arrived in a position to receive the roll 82 and the roll is lifted into engagement with the cam groove by the action of the spring 95, or by the positive action of the projection 101 on the roll 100. The parts of the machine are thus thrown into operation in their proper timed relations and continue to operate normally until the scam is completed and the lever 108 is actuated to disengage the roll 110 from the groove in the starting cam disk and engage the roll 109 with the cam groove in the stopping cam disk.

In order to aetuate the lever 108 to engage the rolls thereon alternatively with the stopping cam upon the completion of the seam and with the starting cam to begin the sewing operation, a lever 125 is journaled upon the shaft 41 and is connected with the lever 108 by means of. angular retaining plates 126 secured to the hub of the lever 108 and engaging oppositely projecting lugs 127 on the hub of the lever 125. This connection between the lever 125 and the lever 108 causes said levers to move longitudinally of the shaft 41 in unison, but permits the lever 125 to move angularly about the shaft independently of the lever 108. The lever 125 is constructed with forks which embrace the main shaft of the machine, the forks being provided respectively with inwardly projecting pins 128 and 129. It will be noted from an inspection of Fig. 3 that the ends of the forks on the lever 125 are arranged out of line so that the pin 128 is located in position to engage a groove 130, while the pin 129 is opposite and in position to engage a groove 131 formed in a collar attached to the main shaft of the machine. The span of the forks on the lever 125 is such that when one of the pins 128 and 129 is in engagement with the corresponding groove the other pin is out of engagement with its corresponding groove. The formation of the grooves 130 and 131 will be understood from an inspection of Fig. 12. Each of said grooves comprises a portion running completely about the collar parallel with the direction of rotation of the shaft, a second portion also arranged parallel to the direction of rotation of the shaft and extending partly about the collar and an angular crossover between the parts of the groove. During the sewing operation the pin 128 is engaged with the lefthand portion of the cam groove 130, the lever 108 being thereby held in position to maintain the roll 110 in engagement with the starting cam. When the seam has been completed, and it is desired to place the parts of the machine in a condition to permit the removal of the shoe, the lever 125 is actuated to engage the pin 129 with the groove 131. The pin 129 at this time engages the lefthand portion of the groove 131, and when said pin arrives at the angular cross-over between the lefthand portion of said groove and the right hand portion thereof, the lever 125 is moved to the right (Fig. 3), thereby shifting the lever 108 to the right to engage the cam roll 109 thereon with the cam groove in the stopping cam disk. When the shoe has been removed and another shoe inserted in the machine, and it is desired to begin the sewing operation, the lever 125 is actuated to engage the pin 128 in the groove 130. The lever 125 is at this time in the position shown in Fig. 3, so that the pin 128 engages the righthand portion of the groove 130. lVhen the pin 128 arrives at the cross-over between the righthand portion of said groove and the lefthand portion thereof, the lever 125 is moved to the left in Fig. 3, carrying the lever 108 to the left to engage the roll 110 with the cam groove in the starting cam disk. thereby starting the parts of the machine into action in their proper timed relations.

In order to actuate the lever 125, said lever is provided with an arm 135 in which is formed a slot to engage a pin 136 carried by a lever 137 pivoted at 138X and provided with a rearwardly extending arm connected with the rod 32.

When the treadle is released, the heavy spring 2G lifts the treadle to disengage the members of the driving clutch. After the clutch members have been disengaged and the stop screw 24 engages the frame, the rod 32 is lifted by the action of the spring 33, thereby actuating the lever 125 to engage the pin 129 with the groove 131. The main shaft continues to rotate under its own momentum after the members of the driving clutch are disengaged until the looper, feed mechanism and needle are thrown out of action as described. When the treadle is depressed, the part 17 thereof is first moved about its pivot on the part 19, thereby depressing the rod 32 and actuating the lever 125 to engage the pin 128 with the groove 130. After the stop screw 27a engages the part 19 of the treadle, the further depression of the treadle actuates the wedge 18 to engage the members of the driving clutch to start the driving shaft of the machine.

It is to be observed that by means of the treadle mechanism employed, the pressure with which the members of the driving clutch are engaged, and thereby the speed of the machine, may be varied without in any way affecting the mechanism for throwing the looper, feed slide and needle out of action. A catch lever 28 is pivoted on the part 17 of the treadle and is provided with a rearwardly extending hooked extremity which is arranged to hook over a lug 28b on the part 19 to lock the parts of the treadle together when desired. The treadle may then be operated to engage and disengage the members of the driving clutch without affecting the mechanism for throwing the looper, feed slide and needle out of action.

The Space between the starting cam disk and the stopping cam disk is slightly greater than the distance between the outer faces of the rolls 109 and 110 to prevent the rolls from engaging the cam grooves in the starting cam and stopping cam at the same time, which might cause breakage of the parts of the machine. In order to support the lever 108 when said lever is moved laterally to disengage the roll 110 from the groove in the disk 107 and to engage the roll 109 with the groove in the disk 106, a plate 138a is secured to or formed on the starting cam disk 107 and a plate 139EL is secured to or formed on the disk 10G, as shown in Figs. 14 and 15. These plates engage the rolls 110 and 109 when the lever 108 is moved laterally upon stopping the machine and prevent the displacement of the lever, The lever 108 is prevented from being displaced when it is moved laterally to disengage the roll 109 from the groove in the Stopping cam 106 and to engage the roll 110 with the groove in the starting cam 107 upon starting the machine by a plate 140a secured to or formed on the disk 106 and by a stop pin 141a secured to the lever 108 which engages a portion of the frame. It may happen that when the machine is started, the roll 110 will engage the portion 122 of the cam groove in the starting cam disk before the lever 108 has completed its lateral movement so that the roll 110 then extends only part way into the groove in the starting cam disk. In order to support the roll 110 at the point 122 and prevent it from being thrown out of the cam groove, a plate 142a is secured to the starting cam disk 107. In case the operator depresses the treadle to start the machine and after the lever 108 is shifted to an intermediate position such that the rolls 110 and 109 are out of engagement with the cam grooves in both cam disks, he releases the treadle, it may happen that the lever 108 will be displaced so that the roll 109 will be thrown out of position to engage the cam groove in the stopping cam disk. In order to pick up the roll 109 when the lever 108 becomes displaced in this manner and to throw the roll outwardly into registration with the outer portion of the groove. in the stopping cam disk at the time that the crossover in the groove 131 engages the pin 129, the plate 140a is provided with an extension 143a which extends inwardly to the central portion of the groove in the stopping cam disk.

rIhe tension devices of the machine comprise a tension wheel 138 mounted on the shaft 139 journaled in the machine frame. A brake wheel 140 is attached to the other end of this shaft and a brake shoe 141 is arranged to engage the brake wheel 140. The brake shoe 141 is pivotally mounted on the end of an arm 142 which is pivoted on a stud 143 secured to the machine frame. A lever 144 is also pivoted on the stud 143 and is connected at one extremity by a link 145 with an arm 146 secured to the shaft 48. The lever 144 is connected at its other extremity by a link 147 with a lever 148 pivoted at 149 on the machine frame. A rod 150 is pivotally connected with the arm 142 and passes through a perforation in the end of the lever 148, and a coil spring 151 surrounding the rod engages the lever 148 and a nut 152 threaded on the rod. The lever 144 and link 147 form a toggle which, during the sewing operation, is maintained in a straightened condition, as illustrated in Fig. 1, by the position of the arm 146, thereby causing the brake shoe 141 to be engaged with the brake wheel 140 by the action of the spring 150. Upon stopping the machine at the completion of the seam, the shaft 48 is rotated to the left (Fig. 1), carrying the arm 146 into the position shown in Fig. 4.

This movement of the arm 146 breaks the toggle 144-147 and causes the brake shoe 141 to disengage the brake wheel 140 and thereby release the tension on the thread. When the machine is started, the shaft 48 is rotated to the right (Fig. 4) to restore the arm 146 and the toggle 144-147 to the position illustrated in Fig. 1, thereby restoring the tension to the thread. The mechanism for actuating the shaft 48, as described, comprises an arm 153 secured to the shaft 48, a link 154 connected at one extremity by a universal joint with the arm 153 and at the other by a universal joint with the arm of the lever 155. The hub of the lever 155 is loosely mounted on the hub of the lever 108 but is confined between abutments on said lever so that the lever 155 is caused to move longitudinally of the shaft 41 with the lever 108. A roll 156 is carried on the arm 157 of the lever 155 and when upon stopping the machine the lever 108 and lever 155 are moved to the right (Fig. 3), the roll 156 is moved into position to be engaged by a cam 158 mounted on the inner face of the starting cam disk 107. By the engagement of the.cam 158 with the roll 156 the lever 1.55 is moved to the left (Fig. l) thereby, through the connections described, rotating the shaft 48 to the left and actuating the arm 146 to release the tension. An adjustable stop screw 153a threaded into an arm on the frame of the machine is arranged to engage the arm 153 and limit the movement of said arm when the tension is released. A second roll 159 is carried by the arm 157 of the lever 155 and when said lever is moved to the left (F ig. 3) with the lever 108 upon starting the machine, the roll 159 is moved into position to be engaged by a cam 160 mounted on the cam disk 161 secured to the cam shaft of the machine. By the engagement of the cam 160 with the roll 159 the lever 155 is moved to the right about the shaft 41, thereby rotating the shaft 48 to the right and actuating the arm 146 to restore the tension to the thread.

The welt guide 4 of the machine is connected by a link 16'2 with the welt guide slide 163. The mechanism for advancing and retracting the slide is constructed substantiall y as shown and described in application Serial No. 447 ,542, referred to above, and comprises a spring 164 coiled about a stud 165 and having an upwardly extending arm engaging a pin on the welt guide slide for advancing the slide and a cam actuated lever 166 connected by a link 167 with the clutch box 168 surrounding the slide and provided with a clutch mechanism for retracting the slide. The work rest 5 is mounted on a slide 169 and is actuated by a coiled spring 170 as in said application. The mechanism for locking the welt guide and work rest slides is of the usual construction and comprises clutch rolls 171 and 17 2 arranged to engage clutch surfaces on the welt guide and work rest slides, a wedgeshaped supporting member 173 arranged between the rolls and pivoted to the arm of a cani-actuated lever 174 by which the member 173 is actuated to unlock the slides and a spring 175 connected with the arm of said lever to actuate the member 173 to lock the slides.

In order to maintain the welt guide and work rest slides unlocked when the needle is at rest, the lever 174 is provided with an arm 176 extending rearwardly over the shaft 48 and provided with an enlargement at its extremity which is arranged to be engaged by the end of an arm or member 177 loosely mounted on the shaft 48. During the normal operation of the machine the member 177 is held in forward position out of engagement with the arm 176 of the lever 174 by an arm 178 fixed to the shaft 48 and engaging a pin mounted on a member 177. When the shaft 48 is moved to the left upon stopping the machine, the arm 178 is moved out of engagement with the pin on the member 177 and said member is moved by a spring 179 beneath the enlargement at the end of the arm 176, therebv preventing the spring 175 from actuating the member 173 to lock the welt guide and work rest slides.

The welt guide is provided with a rearwardly extending projection 180 to which is adjust-ably secured a plate 181, the end of which is upturned in position to engage the hub of the arm 146 and thereby limit the forward movement of the welt guide when no work is in the machine. The adjustment between the plate 181 and the projection 180 is provided for by forming slots in the projection 180 and securing the plate to said projection by screws 182 passing through the slots and screwed into the plate.

In order that the welt guide may be retracted to the rear of its normal retracted position when the needle is brought to rest to permit the ready removal of the shoe and the insertion of another shoe in the machine, a laterally extending plate 183 is secured to the projection 180 on the welt guide slide and a lug 184 is formed on the lever 144 and arranged to engage the forward edge of the plate 183. During the normal operation of the machine the lug 184 is out of position to engage the plate 183 during the advancing and retracting movements of the welt guide. When however, the toggle 144-147 is broken to release the tension on the thread upon stopping the machine, the movement of the lever 144 brings the lug 184 into engagement with the plate 183 and the welt guide is thereby retracted to the rear of its normal retracted position.

Although the invention has been illustrated and described as embodied in a curved hook needle sewing machine for sewing the inseams of boots and shoes, it is to be understood that except as defined in the claims, the invention is not limited to any particular machine or type of machine. It is also to be understood that except as defined in the claims, the invention is not limited to any particular construction or arrangement of parts.

Having explained the nature and object of the invention and having described the preferred embodiment thereof, what is claimed 1sz- 1. A chain stitch shoe sewing machine having, in combination, stitch forming devices including a hook needle and a looper, and mechanism to cause the needle to retract while its hook is empty and come to rest out of engagement with the work during a forward cycle of movement of the machine.

2. A chain stitch shoe sewing machine having, in combination, stitch forming devices including a hook needle and a looper, a main shaft from which said devices are operated, and mechanism to cause the needle to retract while its hook is empty and come to rest out of engagement with the work during the forward rotation of the shaft.

3. A chain stitch shoe sewing machine having, in combination, stitch forming devices including a hook needle and a looper, and mechanism to cause the needle to retract while its hook is empty and come to rest out of engagement with the work during a forward cycle of movement of the needle.

4. A chain stitch shoe sewing machine having, in combination, stitch forming dcvices including a hook needle and a looper, and mechanism acting automatically when brought into action to cause the needle to retract while its hook is empty and come to rest out of engagement with the work during a forward cycle of movement of the machine.

5. A chain stitch shoe sewing machine having, in combination, stitch Aforming devices including a hook needle and a looper, and mechanism under the control of the operator and acting automatically when thrown into action to cause the needle to retract while its hook is empty and come to rest out of engagement with the work during a forward cycle of movement of the machine.

6. A chain-stitch sewing machine, having, in combination, stitch forming devices including a hook needle and a looper, a cam shaft and mechanism to render the looper inactive during the forward rotation of the cam shaft.

7. A chain-stitch sewing machine, having, in combination, stitch forming devices including a hook needle and a looper, a cam shaft and mechanism to render the looper inactive and to cause the needle to retract and come to rest out of engagement with the work during the forward rotation of the cam shaft.

8. A shoe sewing machine having, in combination, stitch forming devices including a needle, a cam shaft from which said devices are operated, and means acting automatically upon stopping the machine to cause the needle to come to rest in retracted position out of engagement with the work during the continued rotation of the shaft.

9. A shoe sewing machine having, in combination, stitch forming devices including a needle, a main shaft, devices for actuating the needle from the shaft, and means acting automatically upon stopping the machine to disconnect the needle from its actuating devices during the rotation of the shaft.

10. A shoe sewing machine having, in combination, stitch forming devices including a needle, a main shaft, devices for actuating the needle from the shaft, and means acting automatically upon stopping the machine to disconnect the needle from its actuating devices at a predetermined point in the rotation of the shaft..

11. A shoe sewing machine having, in combination, stitch forming devices including a needle, a cam shaft, devices for actuating the needle from the cam shaft, and means including a timing cam for disconnecting the needle from its actuating devices during the rotation of the shaft.

12. A shoe sewing machine having, in combination, stitch forming devices including a needle, a cam shaft, devices for actuating the needle from the cam shaft, and means including a disconnecting cam and a timing cam to disconnect the needlel from its actuating devices during the rotation of the shaft.

13. A chain stitch shoe sewing machine having, in combination, stitch forming devices including a hook needle and a looper', devices for actuating the looper, and means to disconnect the looper from its actuating devices during a cycle of operations.

14. A chain stitch shoe sewing machine having, in combination, stitch forming devices including a hook needle and a looper, a main shaft, devices to actuate the looper from the shaft, and means including a timing cam to disconnect the looper from its actuating devices during a cycle of operations before the needle is looped.

15. A chain stitch shoe sewing machine having, in combination, stitch forming devices including a hook needle and a looper, a main shaft, devices to actuate the looper from the shaft, and means including a disconnecting cam and a timing cam to disconnect the looper from its actuating devices during a cycle of operations before the needle is looped.

16. A chain stitch shoe sewing machine 

